HVLP Windows

new member Joined: Jan 31, 2007 Posts: 2

Hi

Great web site Smile

I bought a system that I want to try out on window frames. I read your post and seen the picture of the results - I am amazed.

What are the steps that I should follow from start to finished product. What about over spray on walls and glass? Do I need to tape and paper them? You buff the final (3 coat) - what would you suggest using?

Regards

Norseman

Site Admin Joined: Mar 22, 2005 Posts: 33

Hi Norseman, welcome to The PAINTING Guys web site.

You have a few options, not one way is the best but I'll try and explain that process if you are painting the walls. Be sure you have taken precautions in covering floors and other area's that may be exposed to airborne over-spray and any dust travel caused from spraying.

I use a top quality acrylic paint and usually use semi gloss for all trim, doors, crowns and baseboards.

Top quality BM paint is thick so I must reduce the paint when using and HVLP. If you have the 2.2 gallon pot with your HVLP, ( the one with the compressor) you don't need to reduce paint as much because those units have more pressure.
For those chiming in on this topic, reducing paint (thinning) helps paint flow more. Also, the more you reduce the duller finish. For me, this makes a more desirable finish for most people so I use a semi gloss reduced to accomplish a satin look Wink

(notice the differences in finishes between a brush, rolling or spray). A brush produces the most shine because it is a wiping method, roller is less but still causes some drag and, spray goes directly on the area so its always less shinny. Make sense?

That being said.., regardless of the amount reduced, I can later on buff my finishes to taste to produce an increadible smooth finish. When I use Benjamin Moore Collection (semi gloss) reduced and buffed, the finish is totally amazing, smooth like a car but that modern looking acrylic finish. Home owners can use a feather duster on the sills for cleaning.
This type of finishing is for super quality, high end trim. Appreciated by people who know the difference between common painting and royal quality finishing. Trim painted like this often looks like it was an original factory coat. Its awesome for wood windows and modern MDF etc.

As always... the more prep, the smoother the finish you can accomplish without showing flaws of the wood/MDF or brad nails, mider cuts etc, or simply... the carpenters poorer quality of workmanship. Painter make everyones work look better when done like this.
For high end homes or projects, I often take 2 weeks or more for every 3000 sq ft of building just to prepare the trim work before any paint goes on.

I only paint like this if I am painting walls too. I don't worry about getting the paint on walls or windows much. When spraying all the edges of the trim I don't worry about hitting the walls. I simply make sure there are no sags anywhere on the walls that will be visible, hard to sand after when we are into the wall colours later. I always make sure each step I do when painting is clean and ready for the next step as I go so there are no mistakes or suprises later. Going backwards is what we want to avoid at all times. If I'm priming, I prime everything possible. If I'm sanding, I sand the entire house, windows etc. Each step I do is done to the max, completed and prepared for the next step.

For the glass and hardware... I always clean the glass and remove bad caulking before I start spraying. I then prime bare areas and caulk or re caulk older windows/ trim... before painting.
I may tape, use a spray shield or spray right onto the glass without concern. depending on the job, my methods can vary.

Cleaning after: Fresh paint comes off like butter because its not cured. To remove it I may wet it a bit first to soften things up, then, take a razor knife to cut the edges and finially use a special glass blade to clean the entire window tight to the frame and keeping in mind, not removing any seal I'm made during prep. The final window looks like it was brand new or if it is new, better than anything else you've seen by other common painting methods.

I was once worried about telling my painting tricks or tips however, I don't worry about this anymore. This type of finishing isn't for the average painters out there. Not everyone can afford to pay a painter to do this type of work nor are there that many painters fussy enough to take the time. If there are more painters doing this type of finishing, its all better for the trade. Most painting/ painters I see these days don't even take the time to sand so, this type of finishing would be overwhelming and not profitable in their circle. This is a whole new level of finishing. If you have the clients and desire to work this hard at finishing, its very rewarding. Hope this helps and I welcome more question.

(I also use (more often) an airless with very fine finishing tips for trim, doors etc.

Cheers!

Wink

new member Joined: Jan 31, 2007 Posts: 2

I am going to run some tests to work out the viscosity needed for certain BM and GP paints.

I thank your for your wisdom and experience.

Norseman Very Happy

Site Admin Joined: Mar 22, 2005 Posts: 33

your welcome.

I have tried this with both General Paint and Gidden Paint recently. Here are my results

Both products I've used appeared dead looking compared to BM Collection. I'm actually completely redoing a home in Prince George that was just finished with Glidden Paint. The owners and interior designer were dissatisfied with the results of a home, I bid on this summer, that was awarded to another contracting company. This is another story about a painting company less expensive that claims to be high end.
The owners, being so dissapointed at the end of their job asked me to do an A/B comparison in their newly painted home.
Side by side... comparing walls and trim, my work using Benjamin Moore paint, compared to their work using Glidden paint... the difference was very obvious.

Is there a difference in paint quality? Well... I can't do all the things I do using cheaper paints including BM (Moore Style or Moore Spec) as well. The trim examples on this website are using BM Collection line only.

IMHO... if we take this much time to prep a house, I pay the difference for quality paint. A few hundred dollars more for quality paint puts thousands into my pocket and builds life long happy clients.
=====

A few months back I was in the Prince George Cloverdale Paint store buying some sundries ( their prices are great and they are all excellent people BTW!). A painter buying a sprayer beside me noticed my truck outside and rudely remarked, "what are you doing here? BM owner not treating you right so you come here?"
I looked at him and said... "oh, you don't like BM paint eh... is it because its too thick for you?" Before I could engage in a shop talk conversation... he took offense and defensively said " I like paint I can use right out of the can".
He obviously doesn't know that you don't cut detail work with thick paint, nor... do you roll walls with thin paint either 9Unless its a final top coat under stress for some reason). Thick paint is difficult to spray production work so he buys an all in one product. Seeing the sprayer in hand and seeing how fast he was at telling me off, I knew his issues, and bit my tongue.

So many painters sell themselves cheap and end up buying, and working with low end paint. They never learn how good their work can really look. No matter what detail of work I do, I always buy the best paint I can because I put my name on every job I do.

Please feel welcome to let our readers know what your results are.